Introduction

       Becoming a better cyclist requires hard work and dedication; you cannot expect results without it. A proper bike fit is one of the biggest alterations a beginner cyclist can perform. A good fit will translate to immediate performance improvements and comfort on a bike. Some benefits include:

·        Improves control when cornering

·        Increases power delivery to pedals

·        Reduces stress of joints, back, and hands

·        Makes for a less ‘Sketchy’ rider

·        Opens chest for greater air intake

        I have been in search for the perfect position for years now but have realized that all the formulas and tables available on the internet and in books cannot capture the simple fact that human bodies are all different in some respect. I will share with you all of the formulas and information I have amassed and try to guide you in using it in a way that can be beneficial to you and you alone.

*This article is intended for Track and Road bikes but similar methods can be applicable to other bike types.

Step 1:

         Know the components of a bike and what is possible in terms of cost, and expertise of installation. There are many things that you can modify to fit your body type. Handlebars, Bike size, Crank length are just a few. Here is a list of the major components on a bike that can be fitted:

·        Frame size

·        Crank Length

·        Saddle

o   Height (relative to [center of BB] or [center of Pedal axil])

o   Fore/Aft ([zero setback] seat-post or [setback{some degree}] seat-post)

o   Angle (relative to horizon)

·        Handlebars (classic, ergonomic, track)

·        Stem(degree and length of stem)

·        Steer tube (cut to size)

·        Pedal Float (Fixed or Free float)

Step 2:

       The first thing that you must adjust or select is your bike size. There are two dominant road frame types compact and normal. Compact frames try to minimize the actual frame size in an attempt to reduce weight, create a stiffer frame by reducing the triangle created by the top-tube, bottom-tube, and seat-tube. Compact and normal frames have a standard sizing chart when it comes to specifications and compact frames have adjusted details that correspond to normal sized frames.

   Frame Metrics:

    Normal Frame Geometry

    Compact Frame Geometry:

   *Note the slope of the Top Tube- B2 is the simulated normal geometry. 

   Detailed view:

There are many formulas/methods on the internet that tell you your frame size based on common body types. The formulas/methods show bellow use input metrics to approximate your ideal frame size.

o   Sub-Step 1: Your body measurements:

o   The inseam measurement is the one of the most important metrics in determining frame size. It is done by standing straight up with your bare feet on a hard floor six inches apart. Use a book to simulate a saddle and push it up against your crotch in the same manner that you would when sitting on a bike seat. Have an assistant measure the length from the floor to the top of the book. Repeat this 3 times and take the average to insure accuracy.

o   Sub-Step 2: Use formula:

o   Frame Size (cm) = inseam length (cm) x 0.65 (other sources use .67)

o   Sub-Step 3: Does it work?

o   Well in a way it does? It is close enough to your ideal position that other modifications to say stem and saddle fore/aft can compensate for any inaccuracies derived from the formula. Your frame size WILL BE within +- 2cm deviation with a 95% confidence of the formula above.

o   Companies create bikes by adjusting the Top Tube Length (effective) and Seat Tube Length concurrently. A size 56 frame will in a normal geometry have a 56cm Top Tube and a 56cm Seat Tube. Compact frames have a similar method but their virtual geometry allows for more possible positions as advertised by Cervelo.

o   BUT WAIT? We measured your inseam so the Seat Tube length makes sense, right? So how does do we get the same Top Tube Length if we did not measure anything above the belt? I think this is where the formula goes wrong, it doesn’t account that some people have longer/shorter torsos and arm reach then the formula/companies assumptions.  This can be compensated by longer stems but for novices the added complexity of changing stems can be a difficulty. I will try to point out common tell-tell signs if you are overly stretched out or compressed on you bike when we look at seat height and stem length.

Step 3:

The Saddle height/position/type is the next critical adjustment necessary after acquiring the correct frame size.

          Saddle Height:

o   Sub-Step 1: Using the same inseam measurement we used for frame size:

o   Standing straight up with your bare feet on a hard floor six inches apart. Use a book to simulate a saddle and push it up against your crotch in the same manner that you would when sitting on a bike seat. Have an assistant measure the length from the floor to the top of the book. Repeat this 3 times and take the average to insure accuracy.

o   Sub-Step 2: Use Formulas:

o   LeMond Method: Saddle Height(cm) = inseam length (cm) x 0.883

o   Measure and apply the seat length from the center of your Bottom Bracket to your saddle (point of reference on the saddle must be on your sit-bone) of your seat along the seat tube.

o   Sub-Step 3: Does it work?

o   It depends! It works for most but your longevity and length of the femur/tibia can alter the length in either direction. You must understand that your knees MUST bend at the bottom of your stroke approximately 15 degrees. 

Saddle Fore/Aft Position:

·        Sub-Step 1: Knee Over Pedal

o   After setting the correct saddle height place the bike on a trainer or against the wall. Clip in and ride a little if you are on a trainer so that your body relaxes and assumes the proper saddle position. Stop your pedal stroke so that your cranks are exactly parallel to the ground. An assistant can then drop a plum line straight down so that your farthest point of your knee is directly over the middle of the pedal axial.

o   THIS IS NOT ALWAYS TRUE! In some cases your thighs might be shorter then most in which case you need to understand that it is all a matter of weight distribution and the above Knee Over Pedal formula with not apply exactly.

·        Sub-Step 2: Setback seat-post or Not?

o   Many people will realize that the seat-post does not allow-the rails of the saddle to move far enough forward as to hit that optimum position were the knee is over the pedal. If you are in this situation you need to acquire a 0 degree setback seat-post. The inverse is true if you cannot go far back enough you can get a setback seat-post.

·        Sub-Step 3: Degree of inclination

o   The last step to setting up your saddle is the angle at which your saddle is in with respect to the horizon. My rule is to keep it flat as possible exactly level to the horizon. If you tilt the nose down you will get more strain on your hands because the weight has shifted forward. Some people prefer this position because they ride in the drops more often and the node down lessens the pressure on the groin region. Inversely you can tilt the nose up if you feel that you are sliding forward on the saddle.

·        Sub-Step 3: Type of Saddle

o   There are many saddles out there and it is critical that you choose the one that fits you correctly. I’m a firm believer that you must have the correct width saddle so that you are sitting correctly on your sit bones. Specialized for example offers saddle in 130mm, 143mm, and 155mm increments to fit different size people. The standard size for most companies is 130mm but some of you men or women have wider sit bones. Check if your local shop has the Specialized sit-bone measuring tool that you can use to find out your width.  In addition some people will prefer a center cutout saddle. I find these to be more beneficial because they alleviate pressure on the penile nerve and allow for better blood flow to the legs.

Step 4:

        The next step in a proper bike fit is the selection of a crank of the correct arm length. In road cycling there are a few standard crank lengths: 160,165, 170, 172.5, 175, 180 all in millimeter. The standard size that will come with your road bike will be either 175 or 172.5 mm. In theory you think that you would want as long of cranks as possible to provide more leverage but you will compromise comfort and unintentionally lower power output. Longer cranks tend to cause a sharp bend in the knees at top dead center right when power begins to be applied.

          The most common rule here is to use:

I have come across a few great websites on crank calculations:

The CrankCalc is great if you want to visually check your fit: Link

A project on length and power: Link

Step: 5

          Handlebars are in my opinion the easiest change you can make for a better fit. The best way to select handlebars is to measure your shoulder width and that should equal the correct handlebar size. There is also the option of Classic or Ergonomic bend for the drops; this is all up to the cyclist. I have found Classic to be more aggressive when in a sprint, you feel the bike better under you and you have something to pull on especially on the Track. The correct crank length will enable you to open your chest for air intake. If your handlebars are too narrow it will close in your arms and your chest making it harder to take those deep breaths.

Step: 6

          Stem and steer-tube height are the next step in the setup process. The standard road stem is 120mm. Stems are all about having the correct arm extension on a bike. If the stem is too short you will feel constricted and too much pressure will be applied to your hands. Too long of a stem will over-stretch your body and apply unwanted stress on your back and hands. When trying to find the best length stem make sure you are comfortable in a stationary position like on a trainer. If the three points of contact feel good then you have a good length stem. If you feel that too much of your weight is still on your hands try a stem with a different degree bend. Moving you up or down the vertical axis of your stem, respectively. You can also cut the steerer tube to the desired height as well.

Signs of Incorrect Setup: 

       Back Pain= Seat too high